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How
we grow our Mexican Pinguicula |
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Basic
description
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Many growers of
these plants warn not to grow them as we do here at
Tropical-Mesa. Some
will also claim that these Mexican species and
hybrids that have a heterophyllous growth habit
(different leaf shape that vary with the season),
are dormant when in winter leaf form. We do not
agree with this interpretation. Many of these
species also flower when they are in their winter
leaf form, some only flower from their
underground, winter rosette. Our understanding is
that "dormant" plants do not grow or flower.
However, if you don't
feel comfortable growing them as we describe here,
don't feel obligated to do it. Descriptions of more
typical cultural guidance can be found at many other
sites:
pinguicula.org,
CPUK Forum,
or TerraForums
as well as many contemporary books published on
Carnivorous Plant culture.
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Light is the only environmental
factor I would consider more important than any
other, but they all contribution to the balance -
and the balance is the truly important issue. The
optimum amount of any factor, light included, must
be balanced by all the others. Learning to juggle,
is a "must" for anyone serious about growing CP,
well. My cultivation techniques focus on providing
optimum levels of the most environmental factors
possible, in order to encourage the plants to grow
and look their best.
It has been officially determined
that most all Pinguicula are subject to a
crown rot disease which can quickly destroy, even
plants that appear healthy. This disease
is said to be precipitated/vectored by nematodes, whose
attacks are well known to cause problems
throughout both the plant and animal kingdoms. Our
growing technique incorporates several
environmental factors known to affect nematode
behavior, including reproduction. We incorporate
all this into our
growing regimen in order to inhibit the
proliferation of nematodes and hopefully the trouble they
can cause.
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Always keep
them wet: Use the tray
method of watering, but keep an eye on them, if the
tray runs out of water, add additional water, before
the pots become dry.
Light: Mexican Pinguicula originate near the
equator, even though they usually choose a niche where
light intensities are less than the maximum possible, it is still
quite a bit higher in intensity than the same exposure
would be in a latitude farther from the equator. And,
too, their day length changes very little throughout
the year. [High light intensity,
especially UV is said to inhibit nematodes.]
Temperature: Lows of 50-60F and
highs of 85-90F work well for us.
Water: Mineral-free water
is not as crucial with Mexican Pinguicula as it
is with many other carnivorous plants, but when using
the tray method it can still be an important way to
keep minerals from building up to toxic levels in
their media.
Humidity:
Not too critical as long as there is a good supply of
water in the trays.
Media: I have successfully grown these plants in many
different media, and combinations of media
ingredients. Presently I have discovered that most of
them do very well in a nearly all-mineral media. My
all-mineral media was inspired by Eric Partrat of
Pinguicula.org.
My media of choice is a mixture of Schultz Aquatic
Plant Soil (APS), silica sand, and iron oxide powder.
I use approximately equal amounts of APS and silica
sand, but after I pre-moisten these two separate
ingredients, I sprinkle a little iron oxide on the
sand and mix it in until the sand is a uniform color,
then I mix the APS and iron oxide coated sand together
before use.
Nutrients: We began incorporating iron oxide into our media to
combat chlorosis we were experiencing with some of our
plants. We heard of others using food prepared and
formulated for tropical fish, and decided to try a
product called, "freeze-dried bloodworms". We first
ground these into a powder and lightly sprinkled them
on the surface of the plants leaves and then lightly
spritz with purified water to facilitate their
interaction with the plants (digestive mechanism). This seemed to
have a positive and dramatic affect .
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